ARDALIN OIL FIELD, Russia (AP) - With its cheerful receptionistand plastic cafeteria trays, the Polar Lights Co. command post couldbe anywhere in America.
But such illusions fade quickly at the Ardalin oil field onRussia's arctic fringe.
The hiss and rumble of a natural gas flare provides the backgroundnoise in the foyer. Hardhats and earplugs are dress code accessories,and visitors must promise not to hunt or trap the local wildlife.
Conoco Inc. began pumping oil at Ardalin in 1994, as one of thefirst U.S. companies to form a joint venture for producing crude innewly capitalist Russia. It operates Polar Lights together with twoRussian firms - Arkhangelskgeoldobycha and Rosneft. Now, asConocoPhillips, it pumps 30,000 barrels of oil per day.
Ardalin is a village of derricks, workshops and dormitoriesperched on steel pilings in a wilderness of ice and stunted conifers,1,060 miles northeast of Moscow. No roads or railroads connect itwith populated areas to the South, so all supplies - from drillingmud to light bulbs - arrive by overland, winter-only routes or byhelicopter.
Crews work around the clock to maintain the winter roads of ice orpacked snow to bring in heavy equipment. When the snow and ice meltaway, so too does the overland traffic because local laws barConocoPhillips from building permanent roads across the delicateterrain.
The environment at Ardalin is one of the most challenging for oilworkers anywhere.
Wind chill drives winter temperatures down to 70 degrees belowzero, so employees suit up like astronauts leaving a space stationbefore stepping outside their housing modules. Their basic wardrobeincludes long johns, two pairs of pants, goose down overalls, a parkaand parka liner, insulated steel-toed boots and a down-filled hatwith a face mask.
"You're walking around like Gumby," said field manager GaryFlowers, 50, of Horseshoe Bay, Texas.
Summer has a harshness of its own. The icy turf becomes a spongymorass, and voracious mosquitoes swarm.
"When the snow's gone, they'll hatch like the next day. There'slimited work you can do outside," Flowers said.
Russians and Americans put in 12-hour days for four weeks at astretch, before an alternating crew shuttles in by air to relievethem. Engineers and the roughnecks who manhandle equipment at wellsites share cafeteria meals, then spend their evenings watchingvideos or playing darts and ping pong.
For field construction manager Frank Hauser, each month off meansdaily games of golf at his home in Austin, Texas. His only taste ofthe sport at Ardalin is what he can catch on satellite TV.
"I've got one club up here, just to look at from time to time," hesaid.
Hauser, 57, worked for Conoco in Alaska before transferring toPolar Lights nine years ago. He brings a few goodies with him afterevery visit back home: Folgers coffee, popcorn, and one bag of trailmix for each day of his rotation.
"You wouldn't be here if you weren't making a good living. Theworst part of this job is gettin' here and gettin' home - thetravel," he said.
Safety manager Boris Osaulenko said he's had to develop a splitpersonality to divide his life between a job on the tundra and a homeand wife in the central city of Vladimir. Nine years of alternatemonths away from home have taken a toll.
"I don't have any friends left. Because to have friends, you haveto spend time with them, party with them," said Osaulenko, 31.
The men and women of Ardalin have their version of fun, whichclimaxes each New Year's Eve with skits staged in the mess hallbefore an audience of workmates stoked on alcohol-free beer.
One recent gala included a cross-dressing roughneck sportingimitation reindeer antlers and dancing the can-can, and competitorsplaying a kind of Russian roulette with eggs - five that were hard-boiled and one that was raw.
Herds of reindeer cross the oil field twice per year, and arcticfoxes leave solitary tracks in the snow - reminders that the economicexiles at Ardalin aren't completely alone.
Copyright 2000 by Telegraph Herald, All rights Reserved.
Oil workers find holiday solace in skits; Tundra: Many are forced to live away from home for work
ARDALIN OIL FIELD, Russia (AP) - With its cheerful receptionistand plastic cafeteria trays, the Polar Lights Co. command post couldbe anywhere in America.
But such illusions fade quickly at the Ardalin oil field onRussia's arctic fringe.
The hiss and rumble of a natural gas flare provides the backgroundnoise in the foyer. Hardhats and earplugs are dress code accessories,and visitors must promise not to hunt or trap the local wildlife.
Conoco Inc. began pumping oil at Ardalin in 1994, as one of thefirst U.S. companies to form a joint venture for producing crude innewly capitalist Russia. It operates Polar Lights together with twoRussian firms - Arkhangelskgeoldobycha and Rosneft. Now, asConocoPhillips, it pumps 30,000 barrels of oil per day.
Ardalin is a village of derricks, workshops and dormitoriesperched on steel pilings in a wilderness of ice and stunted conifers,1,060 miles northeast of Moscow. No roads or railroads connect itwith populated areas to the South, so all supplies - from drillingmud to light bulbs - arrive by overland, winter-only routes or byhelicopter.
Crews work around the clock to maintain the winter roads of ice orpacked snow to bring in heavy equipment. When the snow and ice meltaway, so too does the overland traffic because local laws barConocoPhillips from building permanent roads across the delicateterrain.
The environment at Ardalin is one of the most challenging for oilworkers anywhere.
Wind chill drives winter temperatures down to 70 degrees belowzero, so employees suit up like astronauts leaving a space stationbefore stepping outside their housing modules. Their basic wardrobeincludes long johns, two pairs of pants, goose down overalls, a parkaand parka liner, insulated steel-toed boots and a down-filled hatwith a face mask.
"You're walking around like Gumby," said field manager GaryFlowers, 50, of Horseshoe Bay, Texas.
Summer has a harshness of its own. The icy turf becomes a spongymorass, and voracious mosquitoes swarm.
"When the snow's gone, they'll hatch like the next day. There'slimited work you can do outside," Flowers said.
Russians and Americans put in 12-hour days for four weeks at astretch, before an alternating crew shuttles in by air to relievethem. Engineers and the roughnecks who manhandle equipment at wellsites share cafeteria meals, then spend their evenings watchingvideos or playing darts and ping pong.
For field construction manager Frank Hauser, each month off meansdaily games of golf at his home in Austin, Texas. His only taste ofthe sport at Ardalin is what he can catch on satellite TV.
"I've got one club up here, just to look at from time to time," hesaid.
Hauser, 57, worked for Conoco in Alaska before transferring toPolar Lights nine years ago. He brings a few goodies with him afterevery visit back home: Folgers coffee, popcorn, and one bag of trailmix for each day of his rotation.
"You wouldn't be here if you weren't making a good living. Theworst part of this job is gettin' here and gettin' home - thetravel," he said.
Safety manager Boris Osaulenko said he's had to develop a splitpersonality to divide his life between a job on the tundra and a homeand wife in the central city of Vladimir. Nine years of alternatemonths away from home have taken a toll.
"I don't have any friends left. Because to have friends, you haveto spend time with them, party with them," said Osaulenko, 31.
The men and women of Ardalin have their version of fun, whichclimaxes each New Year's Eve with skits staged in the mess hallbefore an audience of workmates stoked on alcohol-free beer.
One recent gala included a cross-dressing roughneck sportingimitation reindeer antlers and dancing the can-can, and competitorsplaying a kind of Russian roulette with eggs - five that were hard-boiled and one that was raw.
Herds of reindeer cross the oil field twice per year, and arcticfoxes leave solitary tracks in the snow - reminders that the economicexiles at Ardalin aren't completely alone.
Copyright 2000 by Telegraph Herald, All rights Reserved.
